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Industry collapse has left thousands out of work. The alpine glow is short-lived, though, and as the sun drops below the horizon the tempting distraction of the distant volcanoes fades to black. Lights flicker on in the mostly empty hotels and restaurants that line the Costanera, a bay-front road stretching the length of the city.
The air smells of wood smoke, salt water and decay. Surrounding the dock are boats of all shapes and sizes. Too many are anchored. The city, some people fear, is dying. The unemployment rate now stands at a staggering 50 percent. Many residents are simply packing their bags and leaving.
Everyone was working all day. In the shops too, there used to be several salespeople. Now you go in and there are just one or two. Still, until recently it enjoyed a sustained period of steady growth thanks to farmed salmon industry, which took off like wildfire after first gaining a foothold in Chile in the mid s.
Plus there are production bonuses, and overtime. You earn money in the plants, but in exchange you give up a lot. I have the basic things you want. First came reports of serious sea lice infestations. Sea lice, or Caligus, are parasitic crustaceans that attach themselves to fish, marking their hosts with ugly lesions that lessen their market value, stunt their growth and leave them vulnerable to sometimes fatal illnesses. Industry leader Marine Harvest, a Norwegian company, was the first to announce wide-scale layoffs, warning in early it would close two processing plants and axe 1, jobs — roughly 25 percent of its Chilean workforce.
Other companies followed suit. Labor unions estimate that to date, more than 15, people have been laid off. Last December the salmon company Granja Marina Tornagalenos closed a local plant, sending about workers packing.